Mount Pulag

Hiking the Playground of the Gods!

Mount Pulag Summit and Grassland. Photo by Bien02, CC0, via Wikimedia

Rising 2,928 meters above sea level, Mount Pulag stands as the highest peak in Luzon and the third tallest mountain in the Philippines. Straddling the provinces of Benguet, Ifugao, and Nueva Vizcaya, this iconic summit draws thousands of trekkers each year with its ethereal “sea of clouds”, surreal sunrise views, and rich biodiversity.

For many, the allure of Mount Pulag lies in more than just elevation. Its unique mix of mossy forests, dwarf bamboo grasslands, and high-altitude stargazing creates an unforgettable hiking experience. On clear nights, the summit offers views of the Milky Way like few places in the country can.

But Mount Pulag is also sacred ground. It’s revered by local indigenous communities as a resting place for ancestral spirits, adding a deep cultural dimension to every trek. This blend of natural wonder and spiritual meaning makes it one of the Philippines’ most profound eco-adventure destinations.

Whether you’re chasing the sunrise, photographing wild landscapes, or simply looking for a deeper connection to nature, Mount Pulag delivers a hike that is as soul-stirring as it is scenic.

Geography and Elevation

Mount Pulag is located in the Cordillera Central Mountain range, spanning the provinces of Benguet, Ifugao, and Nueva Vizcaya. At 2,928 meters above sea level, it’s the highest peak in Luzon and the third tallest in the Philippines, after Mount Apo and Mount Dulang-Dulang in Mindanao.

The mountain’s terrain is strikingly diverse, transitioning through several distinct ecological zones as you ascend. Hikers begin in pine forests, move through mossy cloud forests cloaked in fog and lichens, and eventually emerge into the summit grasslands, dominated by dwarf bamboo. This transition between ecosystems creates both dramatic scenery and rich biodiversity.

What makes Mount Pulag particularly famous is its summit’s vantage point, where on clear mornings, hikers are rewarded with the “sea of clouds”—a breathtaking phenomenon where low-lying clouds settle below the peaks, giving the illusion of floating mountains. Coupled with expansive views of neighboring ranges, it’s one of the most photographed scenes in Philippine mountaineering.

As a designated National Park and Protected Landscape, Mount Pulag is not only a hiker’s destination but a conservation priority. Its elevation supports rare species and unique plant life, making it one of the country’s most ecologically important highland environments.

Cultural Significance

Beyond its natural grandeur, Mount Pulag is sacred to the indigenous peoples of the Cordilleras. For the Ibaloi, Kalanguya, Kankana-ey, Karao, and Ifugao communities, the mountain is considered the resting place of their ancestors’ spirits—a site where the souls of the dead ascend to find peace among the clouds.

Local traditions teach visitors to treat the mountain with reverence. Loud noises, disrespectful behavior, and littering are strongly discouraged—not just for environmental reasons, but to honor the spiritual significance of the place. Before each trek, hikers are required to attend an orientation at the Mount Pulag National Park office, where guidelines are shared to protect both nature and culture.

Rituals and practices tied to Pulag continue today, and some indigenous groups still hold ceremonies on its lower slopes. Many local guides are members of these communities, offering deeper insight into the belief systems and sustainable living practices that have shaped their relationship with the land for generations.

Hiking Mount Pulag isn’t just a physical journey—it’s a cultural pilgrimage, where every step carries both environmental and spiritual meaning.

Mount Pulag Sea of Clouds. Photo by Joanne Caselyn Suarez joannecaselynsuarez, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Flora and Fauna

Mount Pulag is a biodiversity hotspot, home to species found nowhere else in the world. Its elevation and range of ecosystems—from pine woods to mossy forests and high-altitude grasslands—support an extraordinary variety of plant and animal life.

Flora

• The mountain's mossy forests are draped in ferns, orchids, lichens, and moss, creating an otherworldly green canopy. Higher up, the dwarf bamboo grasslands dominate the summit area, earning Mount Pulag the nickname “playground of the gods.” This unique vegetation supports both biodiversity and soil stability, playing a crucial role in the watershed.

Fauna

• Mount Pulag is one of the few places in the Philippines where hikers might glimpse the critically endangered Philippine deer or the elusive Luzon bushy-tailed cloud rat, one of the world’s largest and rarest rodents. Birdlife is abundant too, with species such as the Philippine hawk-eagle, mountain shrike, and luzon scops owl inhabiting the area. Herpetologists have also identified rare amphibians and reptiles within the mossy zones.

Due to its ecological importance, the mountain was declared a National Park in 1987 and a Protected Landscape in 2022. Conservation efforts help protect not only species but also the mountain’s role as a major watershed for northern Luzon.

Hiking Trails and Difficulty Levels

Mount Pulag offers a variety of trails, each with its own level of difficulty, scenery, and rewards. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned mountaineer, there’s a path that suits your pace and preferences.

Ambangeg Trail – Beginner-Friendly

The most popular and accessible route, Ambangeg starts at the Babadak Ranger Station in Kabayan, Benguet. It features a well-maintained trail, gentle inclines, and an overnight trek to the summit. Most hikers choose this route for its ease and scenic views, making it ideal for first timers.

• Duration: 2 days, 1 night

• Difficulty: Easy to moderate

• Highlights: Mossy forest, grassland summit, sea of clouds

Akiki Trail – The “Killer Trail”

Starting from Duacan, Benguet, Akiki is known for its steep ascents and demanding terrain. It’s physically challenging but highly rewarding, offering dense forests, panoramic ridgelines, and fewer crowds.

• Duration: 2–3 days

• Difficulty: Hard

• Highlights: Mossy forest immersion, wildlife sightings, rugged solitude

Tawangan Trail – Remote and Wet

Originating from Ifugao, this trail crosses rivers, mossy woodlands, and remote sections of the park. It’s recommended for experienced hikers looking for a wilderness adventure.

• Duration: 3–4 days

• Difficulty: Hard

• Highlights: Deep forest biodiversity, river crossings, cultural immersion

Ambaguio Trail – Scenic Traverse

Starting in Nueva Vizcaya, this less-traveled route offers a longer, more gradual ascent and is often used for traverses ending at Ambangeg or Akiki.

• Duration: 3–4 days

• Difficulty: Moderate to hard

• Highlights: Gradual elevation gain, forest trails, scenic transitions

Each trail offers a distinct experience, so your choice depends on fitness level, time, and what kind of adventure you seek.

Permits and Preparation

To protect its delicate ecosystems and respect indigenous customs, Mount Pulag National Park enforces strict access policies. All visitors are required to secure a permit and attend an orientation before entering the park.

How to Secure a Permit

• Permits can be obtained from the Mount Pulag National Park Office in Kabayan, Benguet.

• Advanced booking is recommended, especially during peak season (November to March).

• Some accredited tour operators handle permits, transport, and guides as part of a packaged trek.

Mandatory Orientation

• Before the hike, all participants must join an orientation at the DENR Office in Ambangeg or designated checkpoints. This session covers trail etiquette, cultural sensitivity, environmental protection, and emergency protocols.

Preparation Tips

• Bring cold-weather clothing; temperatures can drop below freezing at the summit.

• Wear waterproof hiking boots and carry essentials like a headlamp, gloves, and rain gear.

• Pre-trek conditioning is highly recommended, especially for the Akiki, Tawangan, or Ambaguio trails.

• Carry enough water and pack out all trash—the park operates under a strict Leave No Trace policy.

  
  

Proper preparation ensures a safe, respectful, and memorable experience on Luzon’s rooftop.

Mount Pulag Mossy Forest. Photo by Klienneeco, CC, via Wikimedia Commons

Best Time to Visit

Choosing the right time to hike Mount Pulag can make or break your experience. The mountain’s high elevation means the weather shifts quickly, so it’s essential to plan accordingly.

Dry Season (November to May)

This is the best time to visit, offering clearer skies, safer trails, and the best chance to witness the famous “sea of clouds” at sunrise. January to March typically brings the coldest temperatures—often near freezing—so dress accordingly. Stargazing is also ideal during this season, with crisp, cloudless nights revealing a dazzling view of the Milky Way.

Rainy Season (June to October)

Heavy rains can make trails slippery and dangerous, especially on more technical routes like Akiki and Tawangan. Access may also be restricted during periods of severe weather or typhoons. Visibility is often limited, and the sea of clouds is less predictable.

Peak and Off-Peak Considerations

Weekends and holidays can draw large crowds. For a more serene experience, consider hiking on weekdays or off-peak months like November or February.

Regardless of season, always check the weather forecast and confirm trail conditions with the Mount Pulag National Park Office before your trip.

Travel Guide: How to Get There

Embarking on a journey to Mount Pulag requires thoughtful planning, as it involves multiple travel segments from Manila. Here's a step-by-step guide to reach the base of this majestic peak:

Manila to Baguio City

• By Bus:

  • Operators: Victory Liner and Genesis/JoyBus offer regular trips from Manila to Baguio.​

  • Departure Points: Terminals in Pasay and Cubao.

  • Fare: ₱450–₱800, depending on the bus class.​

  • Travel Time: Approximately 4–7 hours.​

• By Private Vehicle:

  • Route: North Luzon Expressway (NLEX) → Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX) → Tarlac-Pangasinan-La Union Expressway (TPLEX) → Baguio via Kennon Road or Marcos Highway.​

  • Travel Time: Around 4–5 hours, depending on traffic.​

Baguio City to Mount Pulag Ranger Station

• Public Transportation:

  • From Baguio to Kabayan/Bokod:

  • Terminal: Dangwa Terminal (also known as Old Slaughterhouse Terminal).​

  • Mode: Jeepney or van bound for Kabayan or Bokod.​

  • Fare: ₱150–₱200.​

  • Travel Time: 2–3 hours.​

• Drop-off Point:

  • Inform the driver to drop you at the DENR Visitor Center in Ambangeg, Benguet, for registration and orientation.​

• From DENR to Ranger Station:

  • Mode: Motorcycle (habal-habal) or chartered jeepney.​

  • Fare: ₱250 per person for habal-habal.​

  • Travel Time: 25–30 minutes.​

• Private Vehicle:

  • Route: From Baguio, take the Baguio-Bontoc Road towards Ambuklao, then proceed to Ambangeg.​

  • Parking: Available at the Ranger Station.​

Registration and Orientation

• DENR Visitor Center:

  • Location: Ambangeg, Benguet.​

  • Requirements: Registration, payment of fees, and attendance at a mandatory orientation session.​

• Fees:

  • Registration: ₱175 per person.​

  • Environmental: ₱100 per person.​

  • Guide: ₱600 for a group of up to 5 hikers.​

  • Note: A medical certificate may be required to ensure fitness for the climb.​

By following these steps, you'll be well-prepared to embark on your Mount Pulag adventure, ensuring a smooth journey to the "Playground of the Gods."

Cordillera Mountain Range. Photo by Dutchy4, CC, via Wikimedia Commons

Tips for a Responsible Hike

Mount Pulag is not only a national treasure—it’s a sacred and fragile environment. To help protect it for future generations, hikers are expected to follow key practices for sustainable and respectful travel.

Follow Leave No Trace Principles

• Pack out all trash, including biodegradable waste.

• Stick to established trails to avoid damaging vegetation.

• Avoid picking plants, disturbing wildlife, or removing natural materials.

Respect Local Culture

• Keep noise levels down, especially in culturally sensitive areas.

• Always ask permission before photographing locals, sacred spots, or burial mounds.

• Dress modestly and behave respectfully in the presence of indigenous guides or elders.

Minimize Environmental Impact

• Use refillable water bottles to reduce plastic waste.

• Bring eco-friendly toiletries—no shampooing in streams.

• Camp only in designated areas and avoid open fires unless allowed by your guide.

Hire Local Guides and Porters

• Supporting the community helps maintain trails and encourages stewardship of the park.

• Local guides also offer valuable cultural insights and safety support.

Practicing responsible hiking ensures that Mount Pulag remains a thriving natural and spiritual sanctuary—a place where awe and respect go hand in hand.

Takeaway

Hiking Mount Pulag is more than just a physical ascent—it’s a journey through sacred landscapes, rich biodiversity, and indigenous heritage. From the haunting beauty of the mossy forests to the breathtaking spectacle of the sea of clouds, every step on this mountain reminds you of nature’s quiet grandeur.

As Luzon’s highest peak, Pulag attracts those who seek both adventure and meaning. Whether you’re standing beneath a starlit sky or watching dawn break above the clouds, the experience leaves a lasting impression—one shaped by humility, reflection, and awe.

But with great beauty comes great responsibility. Trekking this fragile mountain demands more than stamina—it calls for respect, preparation, and a commitment to sustainable travel. By hiking mindfully and supporting local communities, you become part of the effort to keep Mount Pulag wild, clean, and revered.

So, pack your gear, respect the trail, and open yourself to the stillness only high places can offer. Mount Pulag is waiting—not just to be climbed, but to be understood.