Mountain Province
- kgm
- Apr 20
- 12 min read
Echoes of Heritage and Highlands!
Tucked away in the cool, misty highlands of Northern Luzon, Mountain Province is where time seems to stand still, and ancestral traditions remain very much alive. Known for its dramatic landscapes, rice terraces carved into steep mountainsides, and centuries-old burial customs, this Cordillera province offers a rare and respectful window into the soul of indigenous Filipino culture.
While the town of Sagada draws visitors for its hanging coffins, cave systems, and sea-of-clouds sunrise, the rest of Mountain Province reveals equally captivating experiences—like the quiet beauty of Barlig, the cultural richness of Bontoc, and the untouched trails of Besao. This is a land of sacred mountains, headhunter legends, and strong communal bonds passed down through generations.
Whether you're trekking to remote waterfalls, sipping native rice wine in a homestay, or simply watching fog roll over a terraced valley, Mountain Province leaves you grounded and transformed.
In this blog, we’ll guide you through the province’s history, geography, top attractions, hidden trails, indigenous culture, food, accommodations, and practical tips—so you can experience the highland spirit of the Cordilleras in its most authentic form.
Location and Geography
Mountain Province lies in the heart of the Cordillera Central Mountain range in Northern Luzon. It is part of the Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR) and is bordered by Kalinga to the north, Ifugao to the east, Benguet to the south, Abra to the northwest, and Isabela to the northeast. Its capital, Bontoc, serves as the cultural and administrative center, while Sagada, Barlig, Sadanga, and Besao highlight the province’s diversity in geography and culture.
The province is characterized by steep mountain ridges, deep river valleys, limestone cliffs, and misty pine forests. Among its most iconic features are the Maligcong Rice Terraces, Chico River, and the towering peaks of Mount Amuyao, Mount Kupapey, and Mount Polis. These natural formations not only shape the landscape but define the local way of life—from agriculture to architecture and even religious practice.
With an elevation that ranges from 500 to over 2,700 meters above sea level, Mountain Province enjoys a cool, temperate climate year-round. The dry months from November to May are ideal for trekking and sightseeing, while the rainy season, from June to October, turns the terraces lush green but may limit mobility due to slippery trails and fog.
Isolated yet interconnected by mountain roads and footpaths, Mountain Province remains one of the most geographically stunning and culturally intact regions in the Philippines.
A Brief History of Mountain Province
Long before the arrival of Spanish colonizers, the rugged terrain of Mountain Province was already home to diverse indigenous communities, including the Bontoc, Kankanaey, and Applai peoples. These groups developed complex agricultural systems—most notably the rice terraces carved into steep mountainsides—as well as rich oral traditions, tribal governance, and spiritual practices deeply tied to nature.
Due to the region’s remote and elevated geography, Spanish colonization was largely unsuccessful in assimilating the local populations. Unlike the lowland provinces, the people of Mountain Province resisted colonial rule and preserved their customs and beliefs through strong communal systems and geographic isolation. Missionary efforts were met with caution, and many highland communities maintained traditional animist practices well into the 20th century.
Under American rule, the area was formally organized as the “Mountain Province” in 1908, encompassing what are now separate provinces: Benguet, Ifugao, Kalinga, Apayao, and Bontoc (now the capital of present-day Mountain Province). The Americans introduced infrastructure, schools, and civil governance but respected the cultural autonomy of indigenous communities more than previous regimes.
One of the most distinctive historical elements of the province is the tradition of hanging coffins, found in Sagada. These pre-colonial burial practices, along with cave interments and ceremonial rituals, offer insight into the people's views on life, death, and the afterlife. Such customs continue to be practiced by a few families today, blending ancestral beliefs with modern Christian influences.
In recent decades, Mountain Province has embraced tourism cautiously, with an emphasis on cultural preservation and environmental sustainability. The rise of Sagada as a travel destination brought national attention to the province’s unique traditions, but local leaders have remained vigilant in managing development in a way that honors ancestral domains and sacred spaces.
Today, Mountain Province stands as a symbol of resilient indigenous identity, where heritage is not a museum piece but a living part of daily life. Its story is one of survival, adaptation, and deep-rooted pride in culture and community.
Top Attractions in Mountain Province
Mountain Province offers travelers an unforgettable blend of cultural immersion and natural splendor. From hanging coffins to highland terraces, the province is rich with stories, landscapes, and experiences you won’t find anywhere else in the Philippines.
Hanging Coffins and Echo Valley (Sagada)
Perhaps the most iconic symbol of Mountain Province, the hanging coffins of Sagada are a testament to ancient burial traditions. Nestled on limestone cliffs above Echo Valley, these wooden coffins were placed by loved ones who believed the higher the resting place, the closer the soul is to heaven. A short hike from the town center leads to this sacred site surrounded by mist and pine trees.
Sumaguing and Lumiang Caves (Sagada)
Known as the “Big Cave,” Sumaguing Cave is famous for its dramatic chambers, rock formations, and underground pools. Nearby, Lumiang Cave serves as an ancient burial site, with stacked wooden coffins greeting visitors at its entrance. Adventurous travelers can join a cave connection tour that links the two—an unforgettable spelunking experience that takes 3–4 hours.
Bomod-ok Falls (Barangay Fidelisan, Sagada)
This towering waterfall is a reward after a scenic trek through rice terraces and small villages. Known as the “Big Falls,” Bomod-ok cascades into a cool natural pool—perfect for a dip after the 1-hour hike. Local guides are required, and proceeds help support the community.
Kiltepan Viewpoint (Sagada)
Famous for its sunrise above a sea of clouds, Kiltepan Viewpoint is a must-visit. Arrive early, bring a warm jacket, and enjoy a panoramic view of pine forests and rice terraces slowly revealed by the morning sun.
Maligcong Rice Terraces and Mount Kupapey (Bontoc)
Less commercialized than Banaue, the Maligcong Rice Terraces offer raw beauty and solitude. A trek to Mount Kupapey provides stunning aerial views of the terraces wrapped in early-morning fog. For an immersive experience, consider an overnight homestay in Maligcong village.
Bontoc Museum (Bontoc Town)
Founded by Belgian missionaries, this museum showcases traditional Igorot tools, attire, and rituals, along with full-scale replicas of native houses. It’s an excellent place to understand the broader cultural context of the region and its people.
Pongas Falls (Sagada)
A quieter alternative to Bomod-ok, Pongas Falls features a dual-stream cascade hidden among boulders and forest. It’s accessible by a shorter but steeper trek through Ankileng village and offers a more secluded, refreshing atmosphere.
Mount Polis (Between Bontoc and Banaue)
For road-trippers and cyclists, the winding climb up Mount Polis offers one of the most scenic drives in the Cordilleras. The viewpoint at the summit reveals rolling ridges and clouds hovering over pine-covered slopes.
From sacred sites and sky-piercing peaks to waterfalls, caves, and terraced landscapes, Mountain Province promises a different kind of journey—one that respects both the beauty of the land and the traditions of its people.
Hidden Gems of Mountain Province
Beyond Sagada’s well-known sites lie quiet, off-the-radar destinations that reveal the soul of Mountain Province—untouched trails, highland villages, and sacred landscapes that few outsiders have seen.
Fidelisan Village and Fidelisan Falls
Located above Bomod-ok Falls, Fidelisan Village offers not just mountain views but also access to a beautiful, lesser-known cascade—Fidelisan Falls. The village is part of the local trekking route but rarely explored beyond a quick stop. Staying overnight in a homestay allows deeper cultural interaction and peaceful sunrise views over the valley.
Mount Fato (Sagada)
Often overshadowed by Kiltepan, Mount Fato offers a quieter sunrise hike with panoramic views of Sagada’s landscape. The trek is relatively short (1–2 hours) and the summit is filled with moss-covered boulders and pine trees—ideal for meditation or photography.
Mount Amuyao and Barlig Village
Mount Amuyao is one of Luzon’s highest peaks, standing at over 2,700 meters. Starting from Barlig, a remote village east of Bontoc, the hike is demanding but rewarding, with cloud forests, ancient stone paths, and views that stretch to the plains of Isabela. Barlig itself is a cultural gem—home to the Ifiallig tribe and rich in folklore.
Besao-Anapucao Trails and Applai Culture
The Besao area is a quiet highland zone west of Sagada, known for its Applai community and forest-lined footpaths. The Anapucao Trail offers day hikes through pine groves, stone-walled terraces, and old ritual sites, far removed from tourist circuits.
These hidden corners remind visitors that Mountain Province is best experienced slowly—with respect, curiosity, and an open heart.
Culture and Indigenous Traditions
Mountain Province is not just a place of scenic beauty—it is a living archive of indigenous identity. The province is home to several ethnolinguistic groups, including the Bontoc, Kankanaey, Applai, and Ifiallig, each with distinct languages, rituals, and artistic expressions. Despite the passage of time and the influx of tourism, many communities have preserved practices that reflect a deep connection to land, ancestry, and communal values.
Rice and Rituals
Rice farming is central to life in the highlands, and the agricultural calendar is marked by rituals that honor spirits, nature, and ancestors. Ceremonies such as the Begnas celebrate the planting or harvesting of rice with chants, dances, and animal sacrifices meant to ensure harmony with the spiritual world.
Tattooing and Woodcarving
Traditional tattooing—once a rite of passage for headhunters—has become a symbol of identity and resilience. Though now rare, remnants of this art form are still visible among elders. Woodcarving remains vibrant, especially in Sagada, where artisans create sculptures, household items, and ritual objects from native pine and hardwoods.
Bodong and Peace Pacts
Among some Mountain Province communities, especially those bordering Kalinga, the bodong or peace pact system is a customary law that regulates inter-tribal relationships, land rights, and conflict resolution. It reflects a governance structure deeply rooted in negotiation, respect, and collective memory.
Christianity and Ancestral Beliefs
While most residents today identify as Christian, especially Anglican or Catholic, indigenous belief systems continue to influence daily life—from burial customs to nature taboos. Sacred spaces like caves, forests, and rivers are treated with reverence and are often off-limits to outsiders without proper guidance or permission.
In Mountain Province, culture isn’t preserved—it’s practiced.
Food & Dining: What to Eat in Mountain Province
Food in Mountain Province reflects the land—simple, hearty, and shaped by tradition. Whether shared during village feasts or served in cozy mountain cafés, local cuisine is deeply rooted in indigenous practices and the highland lifestyle.
Pinikpikan
A ceremonial dish made by lightly beating a native chicken before cooking, pinikpikan is flavored with smoked meat (etag) and ginger. While controversial to some, it remains an important cultural dish tied to Cordilleran rituals and gatherings.
Etag (Salted and Smoked Pork)
Often added to soups and stews, etag is pork cured using mountain salt and smoked or sun-dried. Its rich, savory flavor pairs well with vegetables and is a local staple during festivals and everyday meals.
Heirloom Rice and Root Crops
Mountain Province is known for its heirloom rice, grown on centuries-old terraces. Served steamed or turned into rice cakes, it’s often paired with boiled camote (sweet potato) or ube.
Tapey (Rice Wine)
Locally brewed from fermented glutinous rice, tapey is a sweet and tangy rice wine offered during rituals and feasts. It symbolizes hospitality and is often shared in bamboo cups.
Highland Coffee and Homegrown Dishes
In Sagada, cafés like Gaia Café, Yoghurt House, and Sagada Brew serve fresh coffee, vegetable omelets, mountain greens, and local fusion dishes made with organic ingredients.
Dining in Mountain Province is not about gourmet experiences—it’s about nourishment, tradition, and connecting with the land through food lovingly grown and prepared.
Where to Stay in Mountain Province
Accommodations in Mountain Province range from rustic inns and family-run homestays to artist-inspired eco-lodges tucked within pine-covered hills. Most stays offer basic amenities, warm hospitality, and sweeping views of the Cordillera highlands.
Sagada: Mountain Calm and Creative Retreats
Coffee Heritage House & Hostel – A charming stay nestled among pine trees, offering locally grown coffee, art, and cultural immersion.
Misty Lodge and Café – Cozy rooms and hearty meals with scenic views—perfect after a long trek or cave tour.
Kanip-Aw Pines View Lodge – A favorite for its elevated balconies overlooking Sagada’s lush valleys.
Masferre Inn – Named after the Cordillera’s famed documentary photographer Eduardo Masferre, this inn blends heritage and hospitality.
Bontoc: Gateway to the Heart of the Province
Ridgebrooke Hotel and Restaurant – Centrally located, ideal for travelers exploring nearby rice terraces and cultural museums.
Churya-a Hotel – Clean, affordable, and convenient for trips to Maligcong and Mount Kupapey.
Homestays in Maligcong and Barlig
Local homes in Maligcong and Barlig offer simple, authentic lodging. Staying here supports indigenous families and provides deep cultural connection—plus unbeatable sunrise views from your doorstep.
Whether you're seeking solitude, community immersion, or a launching point for adventure, accommodations in Mountain Province reflect the spirit of the land: humble, grounded, and deeply rooted.
How to Get to and Around Mountain Province
Reaching Mountain Province is part of the adventure. While there are no airports or railways within the province, the highland roads are scenic and rewarding for those willing to make the journey.
Getting There:
Via Baguio City:
Take a GL Trans or Coda Lines bus to Bontoc or Sagada. Travel time is approximately 6–8 hours via the Halsema Highway, known as one of the highest and most picturesque roads in the Philippines.
Via Banaue or Ifugao:
From Banaue, you can ride a local jeepney or van bound for Bontoc (2–3 hours). This route connects with those visiting Ifugao rice terraces.
From Manila:
Direct buses from Manila to Sagada (via Coda Lines in Cubao) operate overnight, with a 10–12-hour travel time. Booking in advance is highly recommended, especially during peak seasons.
Getting Around:
Jeepneys and vans operate between municipalities, though they run on limited schedules.
Motorcycle taxis (habal-habal) are commonly used for narrow, off-road paths and remote village access.
Walking and trekking are essential—many sites require a hike to reach, often through rice terraces or forest trails.
Local tourism offices in Bontoc and Sagada offer guides for hikes, cave tours, and heritage walks. Hiring accredited guides is not only encouraged but often required for both safety and cultural sensitivity.
Navigating Mountain Province may take effort, but the journey itself becomes part of the story.
Best Time to Visit Mountain Province
Mountain Province is a year-round destination, but your experience can vary greatly depending on the season and your purpose for visiting.
Dry Season: November to May
This is the most popular time to visit, with clear skies, cool breezes, and easier trekking conditions.
December to February offers the coldest weather—perfect for mountain escapes and sunrise hikes like Kiltepan and Mount Kupapey.
March to May sees warmer days and blooming greenery, ideal for cave tours, rice terrace treks, and waterfall adventures.
Rainy Season: June to October
While trails can get slippery and fog is more frequent, this season turns the mountains lush and vibrant. It’s also less crowded. However, landslides and road closures are possible, so caution and flexibility are key.
Cultural Calendar Highlights
Sagada Etag Festival (January/February) – Celebrates indigenous heritage, smoked meat traditions, and local pride
Begnas (Various months depending on the village) – A rice cycle ritual of thanksgiving, often closed to outsiders but sometimes observed respectfully by guided visitors
Plan your trip based on your interests—adventure, culture, or solitude—and you’ll find Mountain Province ready to welcome you with open skies or mist-covered hills.
Essential Travel Tips for Mountain Province
To make the most of your trip to Mountain Province, preparation, respect for local customs, and an adventurous spirit are key. Here are essential tips for a safe and meaningful visit:
Pack for cold and variable weather
Bring layers, a waterproof jacket, trekking shoes, and a flashlight or headlamp—especially for cave tours and village hikes.
Bring cash
ATMs are limited and often unreliable in smaller towns like Sagada and Bontoc. Most local businesses are cash-only.
Hire local guides
Many trails, caves, and sacred sites require accredited guides for both safety and cultural reasons. Hiring locals also supports community-based tourism.
Respect indigenous customs and spaces
Some areas are sacred—ask before taking photos, especially of rituals or burial sites. Follow your guide’s lead and observe silence when required.
Prepare for limited connectivity
Signal and internet access may be weak or intermittent, especially in remote barangays. Enjoy the digital detox and immerse yourself in the landscape.
Travel mindfully
Mountain Province is not a place to rush. Plan for extra travel time between towns and take the opportunity to slow down and observe local life.
Takeaway
Mountain Province is not your typical travel destination—it’s a place that invites reflection, reverence, and real connection. Here, the trails are ancient, the views soul-stirring, and the culture deeply rooted in the rhythms of nature and community.
Whether you’re marveling at Sagada’s hanging coffins, trekking through mist-covered rice terraces, or sharing a meal with a village host in Barlig, each moment in Mountain Province carries meaning. It’s not just about ticking off sights; it’s about listening to stories, honoring traditions, and witnessing a way of life that continues to thrive against the backdrop of towering peaks and pine forests.
For travelers seeking more than a getaway—those in search of depth, authenticity, and quiet wonder—Mountain Province offers a journey into both the past and the heart of the Philippines.
Pack light. Travel slow. Leave with more than just photos.
This is Mountain Province—where the highlands echo with heritage and every trail leads to a story.
Mountain province 💚
The perfect place to go when you crave the cold breeze and the fresh scent of pine trees
Ganda talaga
Mountain Province is a place in our country with relaxing scenery.
Sobrang ganda talaga na tanawin sa Mountain Province ang presko ng hangin.