Mountain Province
- kgm
- Apr 20
- 10 min read
Updated: 2 days ago
Echoes of Heritage and Highlands!
Tucked away in the cool, misty highlands of Northern Luzon, Mountain Province is where time seems to stand still, and ancestral traditions remain very much alive. Known for its dramatic landscapes, rice terraces carved into steep mountainsides, and centuries-old burial customs, this Cordillera province offers a rare and respectful window into the soul of indigenous Filipino culture.
While the town of Sagada draws visitors for its hanging coffins, cave systems, and sea-of-clouds sunrise, the rest of Mountain Province reveals equally captivating experiences—like the quiet beauty of Barlig, the cultural richness of Bontoc, and the untouched trails of Besao. This is a land of sacred mountains, headhunter legends, and strong communal bonds passed down through generations.
Whether you're trekking to remote waterfalls, sipping native rice wine in a homestay, or simply watching fog roll over a terraced valley, Mountain Province leaves you grounded and transformed.
In this blog, we’ll guide you through the province’s history, geography, top attractions, hidden trails, indigenous culture, food, accommodations, and practical tips—so you can experience the highland spirit of the Cordilleras in its most authentic form.
Location and Geography
Mountain Province lies in the heart of the Cordillera Central mountain range in Northern Luzon Island. It is a landlocked province within the Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR), bordered by Kalinga and Apayao to the north, Isabela to the northeast and east, Ifugao and Benguet to the south, and Ilocos Sur and Abra to the west and northwest. Its capital, Bontoc, serves as the cultural and administrative center, while municipalities such as Sagada, Barlig, Sadanga, and Besao highlight the province’s diversity in geography and culture.
The geography of Mountain Province is characterized by rugged mountains, steep cliffs, many rivers, waterfalls, and caves. The central and western areas are marked by rugged mountains and steep cliffs, while the eastern portion features generally sloping terrain. Approximately 83% of the land area is mountainous, with the remaining 17% consisting of hills and valleys. The province covers a total land area of about 2,389.43 square kilometers (922.56 square miles).
Mountain Province’s terrain is shaped by the upper realms of the Cordillera Central mountain range, featuring high elevations ranging from 500 to over 2,700 meters above sea level. This varied topography creates a cool, temperate climate year-round, with distinct dry and wet seasons. The dry season, from November to April, offers ideal conditions for trekking and sightseeing, while the rainy season from June to October brings lush greenery but may also cause slippery trails and occasional landslides.
Despite being landlocked, Mountain Province is rich in natural beauty, with numerous rivers and waterfalls that nourish its rice terraces and forests. The province is also known for its mummy caves, which contain naturally mummified bodies, an ancient tradition unique to the region.
A Brief History of Mountain Province
Mountain Province was originally part of a much larger historical province established by the Philippine Commission in 1908, known as the Old Mountain Province. This old province included several sub-provinces: Benguet, Ifugao, Kalinga-Apayao, and Bontoc (now the present-day Mountain Province). Due to its rugged terrain and the fiercely independent indigenous peoples, the area was never fully subdued by Spanish colonizers, who referred to it in some foreign references simply as "Mountain." The locals often shortened the name to "Mt. Province," though this was sometimes misread as "Mount Province" by English speakers.
During Spanish rule, the Igorot people of Mountain Province resisted colonization through their strong communal social structures and geographic isolation. Spanish exploratory attempts from 1566 to 1665 failed to fully conquer the area. The Spanish occupation ended in 1899 when Filipino forces took over Bontoc, the provincial capital.
Under American administration, the Mountain Province was formally organized in 1908, with Bontoc as the capital and Samuel Cane appointed as the first governor. The Americans introduced infrastructure, schools, and civil governance, but largely respected indigenous cultural autonomy.
In 1966, the old Mountain Province was split into four provinces: Mountain Province, Benguet, Kalinga-Apayao, and Ifugao. The current Mountain Province was officially established as an independent province on March 25, 1967, with Bontoc as its capital. This date is celebrated annually as Mountain Province Day. Later, in 1987, the province became part of the Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR), which includes the current Cordillera provinces.
Mountain Province is also renowned for its cultural heritage, including the unique burial traditions of hanging coffins, mummy caves with naturally mummified bodies, and strong indigenous governance systems like the bodong peace pacts. These customs reflect a deep connection to ancestry and the land, preserved despite centuries of external influence.
Top Attractions in Mountain Province
Mountain Province offers an unforgettable blend of natural wonders and cultural heritage. Here are some must-visit sites:
Hanging Coffins and Echo Valley (Sagada)
The hanging coffins of Sagada are among the most iconic symbols of Mountain Province. These wooden coffins are suspended on limestone cliffs above Echo Valley, a practice believed to bring the deceased closer to heaven. Visitors can hike from Sagada’s town center to witness this sacred tradition amid misty pine forests.
Sumaguing and Lumiang Caves (Sagada)
Sumaguing Cave, known as the "Big Cave," features dramatic chambers, stalactites, stalagmites, and underground pools. Nearby Lumiang Cave serves as an ancient burial site with stacked wooden coffins at its entrance. Adventurous visitors can join a cave connection tour linking the two caves, a 3–4 hour spelunking adventure.
Bomod-ok Falls (Sagada)
Known as the "Big Falls," Bomod-ok is a majestic 200-foot waterfall accessible via a scenic trek through rice terraces and villages. The cool natural pool at the base offers a refreshing dip after the hike. Local guides are required, supporting community-based tourism.
Kiltepan Viewpoint (Sagada)
Famous for its breathtaking sunrise above a sea of clouds, Kiltepan Viewpoint offers panoramic views of pine forests and rice terraces. Early arrival is recommended to catch the full spectacle.
Maligcong Rice Terraces and Mount Kupapey (Bontoc)
Less commercialized than the famous Banaue terraces, the Maligcong Rice Terraces offer tranquil beauty and solitude. A trek to Mount Kupapey provides stunning aerial views of the terraces shrouded in morning fog. Overnight homestays provide immersive cultural experiences.
Bontoc Museum (Bontoc Town)
Founded by Belgian missionaries, the Bontoc Museum houses relics and artifacts detailing the history and culture of the Cordillera tribes, including traditional tools, attire, and replicas of native houses.
Pongas Falls (Sagada)
A quieter alternative to Bomod-ok, Pongas Falls features a dual-stream cascade hidden among boulders and forest. The trek is shorter but steeper, offering a secluded atmosphere.
Mount Polis (Between Bontoc and Banaue)
A scenic mountain climb favored by cyclists and road-trippers, Mount Polis offers panoramic views of rolling ridges and pine-covered slopes.
Hidden Gems of Mountain Province
Beyond the popular sites, Mountain Province is home to many lesser-known treasures:
Fidelisan Village and Fidelisan Falls
Located above Bomod-ok Falls, Fidelisan Village offers stunning mountain views and access to a beautiful, lesser-known waterfall. Staying overnight in a homestay allows deeper cultural interaction and serene sunrise views.
Mount Fato (Sagada)
A quieter sunrise hike compared to Kiltepan, Mount Fato’s summit features moss-covered boulders and pine trees, perfect for meditation and photography.
Mount Amuyao and Barlig Village
One of Luzon's highest peaks, Mount Amuyao rises over 2,700 meters. The demanding hike from Barlig village passes through cloud forests and ancient stone paths, offering expansive views extending to the plains of Isabela. Barlig is also a cultural hub for the Ifiallig tribe.
Besao-Anapucao Trails and Applai Culture
The Besao area, west of Sagada, is known for its Applai community and forest trails. The Anapucao Trail leads through pine groves, stone terraces, and ritual sites far from tourist circuits.
Culture and Indigenous Traditions
Mountain Province is a vibrant repository of indigenous culture. The province is home to ethnolinguistic groups such as the Bontoc, Kankanaey, Applai, and Ifiallig, each with unique languages, rituals, and arts.
Rice and Rituals
Rice farming is central to local life, with rituals like the Begnas marking planting and harvesting seasons. These ceremonies involve chants, dances, and offerings to ensure harmony with nature and ancestral spirits.
Tattooing and Woodcarving
Traditional tattooing, once a rite of passage for headhunters, remains a symbol of identity and resilience. Woodcarving thrives, especially in Sagada, where artisans craft sculptures and ritual objects from native woods.
Bodong and Peace Pacts
Some communities maintain the bodong system, a customary law regulating inter-tribal relations and conflict resolution, reflecting governance based on respect and collective memory.
Christianity and Ancestral Beliefs
While Christianity is widespread, indigenous beliefs continue to influence daily life, burial customs, and respect for sacred spaces like caves and forests.
Food & Dining: What to Eat in Mountain Province
Food in Mountain Province reflects the land—simple, hearty, and shaped by tradition. Whether shared during village feasts or served in cozy mountain cafés, local cuisine is deeply rooted in indigenous practices and the highland lifestyle.
Pinikpikan
A ceremonial dish made by lightly beating a native chicken before cooking, pinikpikan is flavored with smoked meat (etag) and ginger. While controversial to some, it remains an important cultural dish tied to Cordilleran rituals and gatherings.
Etag (Salted and Smoked Pork)
Often added to soups and stews, etag is pork cured using mountain salt and smoked or sun-dried. Its rich, savory flavor pairs well with vegetables and is a local staple during festivals and everyday meals.
Heirloom Rice and Root Crops
Mountain Province is known for its heirloom rice, grown on centuries-old terraces. Served steamed or turned into rice cakes, it’s often paired with boiled camote (sweet potato) or ube.
Tapey (Rice Wine)
Locally brewed from fermented glutinous rice, tapey is a sweet and tangy rice wine offered during rituals and feasts. It symbolizes hospitality and is often shared in bamboo cups.
Highland Coffee and Homegrown Dishes
In Sagada, cafés like Gaia Café, Yoghurt House, and Sagada Brew serve fresh coffee, vegetable omelets, mountain greens, and local fusion dishes made with organic ingredients.
Dining in Mountain Province is not about gourmet experiences—it’s about nourishment, tradition, and connecting with the land through food lovingly grown and prepared.
Where to Stay in Mountain Province
Accommodations in Mountain Province range from rustic inns and family-run homestays to artist-inspired eco-lodges tucked within pine-covered hills. Most stays offer basic amenities, warm hospitality, and sweeping views of the Cordillera highlands.
Sagada: Mountain Calm and Creative Retreats
Coffee Heritage House & Hostel – A charming stay nestled among pine trees, offering locally grown coffee, art, and cultural immersion.
Misty Lodge and Café – Cozy rooms and hearty meals with scenic views—perfect after a long trek or cave tour.
Kanip-Aw Pines View Lodge – A favorite for its elevated balconies overlooking Sagada’s lush valleys.
Masferre Inn – Named after the Cordillera’s famed documentary photographer Eduardo Masferre, this inn blends heritage and hospitality.
Bontoc: Gateway to the Heart of the Province
Ridgebrooke Hotel and Restaurant – Centrally located, ideal for travelers exploring nearby rice terraces and cultural museums.
Churya-a Hotel – Clean, affordable, and convenient for trips to Maligcong and Mount Kupapey.
Homestays in Maligcong and Barlig
Local homes in Maligcong and Barlig offer simple, authentic lodging. Staying here supports indigenous families and provides deep cultural connection—plus unbeatable sunrise views from your doorstep.
Whether you're seeking solitude, community immersion, or a launching point for adventure, accommodations in Mountain Province reflect the spirit of the land: humble, grounded, and deeply rooted.
How to Get to and Around Mountain Province
Reaching Mountain Province is part of the adventure. While there are no airports or railways within the province, the highland roads are scenic and rewarding for those willing to make the journey.
Getting There:
Via Baguio City:
Take a GL Trans or Coda Lines bus to Bontoc or Sagada. Travel time is approximately 6–8 hours via the Halsema Highway, known as one of the highest and most picturesque roads in the Philippines.
Via Banaue or Ifugao:
From Banaue, you can ride a local jeepney or van bound for Bontoc (2–3 hours). This route connects with those visiting Ifugao rice terraces.
From Manila:
Direct buses from Manila to Sagada (via Coda Lines in Cubao) operate overnight, with a 10–12-hour travel time. Booking in advance is highly recommended, especially during peak seasons.
Getting Around:
Jeepneys and vans operate between municipalities, though they run on limited schedules.
Motorcycle taxis (habal-habal) are commonly used for narrow, off-road paths and remote village access.
Walking and trekking are essential—many sites require a hike to reach, often through rice terraces or forest trails.
Local tourism offices in Bontoc and Sagada offer guides for hikes, cave tours, and heritage walks. Hiring accredited guides is not only encouraged but often required for both safety and cultural sensitivity.
Navigating Mountain Province may take effort, but the journey itself becomes part of the story.
Best Time to Visit Mountain Province
Mountain Province is a year-round destination, but your experience can vary greatly depending on the season and your purpose for visiting.
Dry Season: November to May
This is the most popular time to visit, with clear skies, cool breezes, and easier trekking conditions.
December to February offers the coldest weather—perfect for mountain escapes and sunrise hikes like Kiltepan and Mount Kupapey.
March to May sees warmer days and blooming greenery, ideal for cave tours, rice terrace treks, and waterfall adventures.
Rainy Season: June to October
While trails can get slippery and fog is more frequent, this season turns the mountains lush and vibrant. It’s also less crowded. However, landslides and road closures are possible, so caution and flexibility are key.
Cultural Calendar Highlights
Sagada Etag Festival (January/February) – Celebrates indigenous heritage, smoked meat traditions, and local pride
Begnas (Various months depending on the village) – A rice cycle ritual of thanksgiving, often closed to outsiders but sometimes observed respectfully by guided visitors
Plan your trip based on your interests—adventure, culture, or solitude—and you’ll find Mountain Province ready to welcome you with open skies or mist-covered hills.
Essential Travel Tips for Mountain Province
To make the most of your trip to Mountain Province, preparation, respect for local customs, and an adventurous spirit are key. Here are essential tips for a safe and meaningful visit:
Pack for cold and variable weather
Bring layers, a waterproof jacket, trekking shoes, and a flashlight or headlamp—especially for cave tours and village hikes.
Bring cash
ATMs are limited and often unreliable in smaller towns like Sagada and Bontoc. Most local businesses are cash-only.
Hire local guides
Many trails, caves, and sacred sites require accredited guides for both safety and cultural reasons. Hiring locals also supports community-based tourism.
Respect indigenous customs and spaces
Some areas are sacred—ask before taking photos, especially of rituals or burial sites. Follow your guide’s lead and observe silence when required.
Prepare for limited connectivity
Signal and internet access may be weak or intermittent, especially in remote barangays. Enjoy the digital detox and immerse yourself in the landscape.
Travel mindfully
Mountain Province is not a place to rush. Plan for extra travel time between towns and take the opportunity to slow down and observe local life.
Takeaway
Mountain Province is not your typical travel destination—it’s a place that invites reflection, reverence, and real connection. Here, the trails are ancient, the views soul-stirring, and the culture deeply rooted in the rhythms of nature and community.
Whether you’re marveling at Sagada’s hanging coffins, trekking through mist-covered rice terraces, or sharing a meal with a village host in Barlig, each moment in Mountain Province carries meaning. It’s not just about ticking off sights; it’s about listening to stories, honoring traditions, and witnessing a way of life that continues to thrive against the backdrop of towering peaks and pine forests.
For travelers seeking more than a getaway—those in search of depth, authenticity, and quiet wonder—Mountain Province offers a journey into both the past and the heart of the Philippines.
Pack light. Travel slow. Leave with more than just photos.
This is Mountain Province—where the highlands echo with heritage and every trail leads to a story.
The landscape of mountain province is amazing 🤩
Mountain province 💚
The perfect place to go when you crave the cold breeze and the fresh scent of pine trees
Ganda talaga
Mountain Province is a place in our country with relaxing scenery.